Days 23, 24, and 25 (November 25-27)

Day 23: Sunrise over the Southern Ocean

We have had a headwind for five days in a row.  Finally, on November 27, once leaving Nullarbor Roadhouse, the weather patterns changed and the headwind was over!  The most notable event of the last three days has been meeting up with another bike tourist doing a round-the-world cycle in seven months.  Comparisons between his travel style and that of Scott and mine find more differences than similarities.  But more of that to follow; let me start on the 25th, before we met the other push biker.
On the 25th of November we cycled from a scenic lookout just past Border Village (the state border between Western and South Australia) to a parking area with nice protection from the wind.  This day was marked by magnificent views of the Bunda Cliffs bordering the Great Australian Bight.  These dramatic cliffs drop into the Bight which marks a large portion of the southern edge of the Australian continent.  (The lookouts are a must see!)  The wind coming off the Southern Ocean is expectedly cool and very strong.  The headwind was, again, like biking up a steep hill, without the glory of an elevation gain!

The Bunda Cliffs along the southcentral Australian coast stretch for several hundred kilometers

The 26th of November we biked 83km to the Nullarbor Roadhouse. This day, too, was dominated by strong headwinds and slow progress. The headwind day after day calls to mind the narration of a Ken Burns documentary in which the narrator reads the diary of a Civil War soldier: the biker’s spirits are low in the face of the endless headwind. Their fearless leader (Scott) pedals on, day after day, praying for, but not expecting a change in conditions.

A new milestone reached: 1,609.3 kilometers = 1,000 miles!

Conditions on the Nullarbor are tough. We arrived at Nullarbor Roadhouse at around one in the afternoon, booked a room and took a much-needed shower.  After doing some laundry, dozing and snacking we were pleased to meet Grey Steil, another cyclist on the Eyre Highway. As with other cyclists on the highway, we hear about them from passing caravaners before we actually meet. Grey is traveling around the world by bike. He bikes from dawn until dusk, averaging around 160km a day!  On the 27th of November we cycled with Grey for 20km. He said this was his first time meeting up with others on a bike tour and was glad for the company. Alas, our traveling pace is much slower than his and we did not keep company for long. Today, Scott and I biked for 100 km and were off the road by one in the afternoon. The day is hot (nearing 100 F) and I, for one, am glad for a shorter day.  I am working on rehydrating, as I expect hotter temperatures tomorrow. Two more days till Ceduna!

Posted by Mattie